It’s time to get started with block 2 now. This one is called the Checkerboard Star. Here in the UK we might better recogise it if it were named the Draught or Chess Board Star, but I think you get the picture. Anyway, it’s another really pretty block to go in your quilt. This block may be pretty and may even be pretty easy to make, but it’s not so easy to make well, so take care as you go and just like chess, take your time!
CHECKERBOARD STAR QUILT BLOCK
Finished Size 12″ (Unfinished 12-1/2″)
Block 2 is the Checkerboard Star quilt block. We will be making it with ‘Flying Geese’ units, just like block 1 and the centre is a checkerboard unit which we will make using simple ‘strip sets’, a technique which eliminates the need to work with tiny squares. This method will help bring the block together more quickly.
CUTTING
Like most blocks this one will work well with fabric colours that have a strong light and dark contrast, just like a chess board. Using high contrast fabrics will make the checkerboard (draughts board in the UK!) block pop!
A. Eight 3-3/4″ x 3-3/4″ squares (blue)
B. Four 6-3/4″ x 3-3/4″ rectangles (white)
C. Four 3-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ squares (white)
D. Two 2″ x 8″ rectangles (yellow)
E. Two 2″ x 8″ rectangles (orange)
The background fabrics for this block are B & C.
BLOCK ASSEMBLY:
- All seams are 1/4″ and I use a stitch length of 1.8.
- As a rule, you would press your fabric seams towards the dark side (darker fabric) but not always. I finger press my seams before pressing with an iron. This allows me to change the seams’ direction if needed without stretching my fabrics.
- In bulky areas press your seams open as this will help reduce thickness.
We are going to begin by making four flying geese units, using the ‘stitch and flip’ method. I’m going to make them just like block 1, a little oversized, then I’m going to trim them to size.
You are going to need two fabric A squares and a fabric B rectangle. Now draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of your two fabric A squares. Then place one of them right sides together (RST) on top of your fabric B rectangle, lining up the left-hand top and side. Stitch on the line.
Next trim away the excess corner fabric leaving a 1/4″ seam allowance. Now finger press the seam to the dark side (fabric A), then press with your iron to fix.
Repeat for the right-hand corner by placing the other fabric A square RST on top of fabric B, lining up the right-hand top and side. Stitch on the line. Trim away the excess corner fabric leaving a 1/4″ seam allowance. Then finger press your seam to the dark side, next fix with your iron.
Now it’s time to trim your Flying Geese unit to the correct size 6-1/2″ x 3-1/2″. Line up your ruler so that it sits 1/4″ away from your white triangle point making sure your ruler is aligned as straight as possible. I have used the 45° diagonal lines on my ruler to line up my block before trimming away the excess fabric, but if your ruler doesn’t have 45° diagonal lines make sure your ruler is as straight as possible by using its line markings to help you. When you are happy it’s straight, trim!
Now trim away all the excess fabric so your flying geese unit measures 6-1/2″ x 3-1/2″. I used the 45° lines on my ruler to square my flying geese unit up before trimming but if you don’t have these markings line up your ruler so that its 3-1/4″ line runs through the centre of your block.
Now make three more.
Next we are going to make the central checkerboard unit using ‘strip sets’.
Take fabric strips D and E and sew them together in alternating coloured rows.
Use pins to stop your fabrics from traveling and to keep your edges aligned and straight. This will help keep your finished unit square.
Now finger press all your seams towards the darker fabric before fixing with your iron.
Cut your unit across the rows into four 2″ strips and arrange the strips so that they look like a checkerboard.
Take the first two rows and with RST nest your seams, use pins to keep your nested seams together and sew.
Take the second two fabrics and repeat – make sure that they are identical with the same-coloured fabric at the top with the seam on the same side or you’ll be unpicking your seam and sewing the other side!
Now it’s time to sort out the seams on the back. Before you press your seams take your seam ripper and unpick the two or three stitches that lie above your horizontal seam on your first row. Don’t cut them, just unpick them. Do the same on the other side.
Now we are going to finger press our seam so that it will lay as flat as possible. With your fingers push your seam towards the light fabric squares. As you do this you will find that where the direction of your seam changes your seams should fall open to make a mini four patch in the centre. Repeat with the other rows. When happy press flat.
Now lay out all your units to form the Checkerboard Star Block. Make sure that everything is in the right place.
Keeping your fabrics in order, sew them together one row at a time taking care to nest your seams and match your points to the centre seam. Finger press your seams in the direction of the arrows before fixing with an iron.
Finally sew your completed rows together pressing your seams away from the centre. Don’t forget to match your points and nest your seams together as you go.
If you have sewn your block together accurately it should measure 12-1/2″ square but if you need to trim it make sure you leave 1/4″ seam allowance on all your points.
That’s block two, completed.